Luxury safaris worth travelling for

Not all safaris are equal. The difference between a good one and an unforgettable one usually comes down to three things: land, guides and time.

Private conservancies — in the Mara, the Serengeti's private reserves, or Botswana's concessions — mean no queues of vehicles at a sighting. Just you, the tracker, and the animal.

A great guide reads the bush like a newspaper: fresh tracks, alarm calls, the direction of the wind. Ask who your guide will be before you book.

And give it time. Three nights is a taste; five is an immersion. The bush operates on its own schedule — the longer you stay, the more it shows you.